Gold Filled vs Vermeil vs Gold Plated vs PVD: What's the Difference?
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The short answer: gold filled jewelry has a thick layer of real gold bonded to a base metal and makes up at least 1/20 of the piece's weight, so it lasts for years. Vermeil is sterling silver with a gold layer at least 2.5 microns thick. Gold plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold with no legal minimum, so it wears off fastest. PVD gold is a very hard, thin gold-toned coating, usually over stainless steel, that is waterproof and scratch resistant.
What is gold filled jewelry?
Gold filled jewelry is made by bonding a thick layer of real gold to a base metal with heat and pressure. In the US, it can only be called gold filled if the gold is at least 10 karat and makes up at least 1/20 (5%) of the total metal weight. Because the gold layer is so much thicker than plating, it does not flake, peel or rub off, and with simple care it lasts for many years. Most of our gold pieces are 14k gold filled.
What is gold vermeil?
Vermeil (pronounced "ver-may") is sterling silver covered with gold that is at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick. Anything thinner over silver is legally just gold plated. Vermeil is a good middle option, but its gold layer is still much thinner than gold filled, so it can wear through over time on pieces you wear every day. We don't currently sell vermeil.
What is gold plated jewelry?
Gold plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold applied over a base metal, usually brass or copper, by electroplating. There is no required thickness, so quality varies a lot. Plating is the least durable option and can wear through, which is when some people see discoloration or a reaction.
What is PVD gold?
PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition, a vacuum process that bonds a thin, very hard gold-toned coating to the metal underneath. Over 316L stainless steel it is waterproof, tarnish resistant and hypoallergenic, which makes it ideal for pieces you never take off. It contains less gold than gold filled or vermeil, so it is priced lower. Our Muse Rings and celestial pieces are 18k gold PVD over stainless steel.
Which lasts longest?
- Gold filled: the most gold of the four and the longest lasting gold layer. Best for everyday heirloom pieces.
- PVD over stainless steel: the toughest finish for water, sweat and the gym. Best for never-take-off pieces.
- Vermeil: a precious silver base, but a thinner gold layer than gold filled.
- Gold plated: the least durable.
Is gold filled jewelry hypoallergenic?
The surface you wear against your skin is real karat gold, so most people with sensitive skin wear gold filled comfortably. PVD over 316L stainless steel is also hypoallergenic. If you have a known metal allergy, check the materials line on each product page, where we always list exactly what a piece is made of.
Can you shower in gold filled jewelry?
You can, but it lasts longest if you take it off for swimming, hot tubs and harsh soaps, and wipe it with a soft cloth. If you want pieces you never take off, choose our waterproof gold PVD pieces.
What we use at Deja Vu Apothecary
We describe every piece by its real material, using the legal definitions above. If something is plated, we will say plated.
- 14k gold filled jewelry: our pearls, chains, hoops and stacking rings, like the Venus Pearl Hoops and Galatea Pearl Chain Necklace.
- Waterproof 18k gold PVD: our Muse word rings and celestial hoops.
- Freshwater pearl jewelry in 14k gold filled.